How to Baste a Quilt

How to Baste a Quilt and Then how to get going on machine quilting it and so what we know about sewing on borders (when we have the patience to do it the right way). 

A friend who is a new 'quiltist' told me that every quilt pattern she sees gives the instructions of how to put the top together and ends with 'finish as desired'. As a self taught quilter, the first few years I made quilts I didn't know about basting them. I'd sew the right sides together with the batting on either the bottom or the top, I'd sew around the edges, leaving an opening big enough to turn the whole thing right sides out. With baby quilts, not a big deal with queen and king size quilts a whole other story. Once I turned it right side out and sewed up the opening, I'd either tie the quilt or machine quilt- either way there were lumps and bumps. 

I don't remember when or who taught me about basting a quilt- likely it was Marcia Hammond at Colonial Quilts in Savannah. The place where Ann and I met, well actually we met when I picked her up on the way to Colonial quilts for an overnight quilt class. No, she wasn't hitchhiking, it was prearranged by Marcia Hammond, after that night our friendship and bond over fabric never waned, we never looked back.  If we'd seen into the future we would have called it our Quilting Binges. The next morning after being up all night with sewing and buying fabric and eating we'd have to drive home with all the windows open because we felt sick. I digress. 

BASTING A QUILT- making the Sandwich

Basting a Quilt- or I Like It Smooth. This is how Lauren does it. Ann has her methods that she will also share with you- actually I think she has a couple of different methods, she's super cool like that!

Step 1 measure your quilt top. Find backing that you like and make sure that it is at least 2" larger on each side of the parameter of the quilt top. i.e. if the quilt top is 72 x 80 inches you want your backing to be 76 x 84 after you've used this method a few times you can cut it a little bit closer (although I don't recommend it unless you are super careful in your basting)

Step 2 create your backing. There are some great wide back pieces of fabric. It's fun to use leftover pieces you have from creating the top. In this example I chose one of the fabrics that I used in the quilt top. 

Most quilt fabric measures 40-44 inches in width. If you have a 72 x 80 quilt - how many yards of fabric do you need for the back? (Insert a table to help with guiding measurement for backing). I would get 4 1/4 yards, oh who am I fooling I'd likely get 5 yards because I'm pretty sure I already love the fabric and would be sad if I didn't have any in my stash and oh I might use it for binding too. Do you see how I get the 4 1/4 yards. 4 yards would be cutting it too close because that puts you right at 72 inches. 

Build the back, sew whatever pieces you need to together to make the backing the size that you need (remember bigger than what the top is). If you've purchased 4 1/2 yards cut it in half at the 2 1/4 point and then sew it together lengthwise -you'll be at about 80" x 80". 

After you've sewn that together iron it. Iron, iron and iron it- only iron it right before you are ready to get started on basting- if you iron it and then realize it's 7:30 and you haven't cooked dinner for your dear husband (this happened to me and Ann we were on a sewing binder and lost track of time and her poor husband was starving). Anyway, iron it right before, you'll thank me. I hate ironing clothes, I love ironing fabric, that smell of warm cotton is brilliant. However ironing the backing is a pain. 

Next lay out the back of the quilt where you are able to baste- I have this table that is now literally 30 years old. It might be time to treat myself to a new one- although it still works- it just isn't beautiful as I notice in these photos how beat up it is around the edges. Ann got one at one of our overnight quilt classes in Savannah- At about 2:00 am we talked the owner of the shop into a 'blue light special' and she gave us 20% off everything we bought.  -Once Ann had one I knew I needed one too. I love to baste on it. Before I had the table I basted on the floor- If I was still using that method my 58 year old knees would never allow that to happen, I'd get one quilt done a year because I would be stuck on the floor until one of my dear children came over to help me up.  

After you piece the backing. Iron it. 

On the table/floor/place where you are going to baste our quilt lay the back with the right side facing down. If there is a seam it is face up, wrong side of the fabric is face up to you. 

Next I use super big bulldog clips. While smoothing the backing I hold the back taught using the clips. 

I like to 'corner' the backing. Backing for most quilters is larger than the tabletop. I like to start in a corner and work from that point. 

See how there is fabric overhanging here - don't worry you'll get to that part after you baste what is on the tabletop part. 

Smooth as you go along.

Bonus half shot of Golden Retriever in the background.

Next layer is the batting. There are lots of different types of batting and I am not super smart about them. I recommend you do the research. My favorite go to batting is Dream Quilter however I use all different types and brands of batting depending on the project. 

You are going to corner the batting with the corner of the backing. And smooth it out.

Next iron the quilt top. Yes, you should iron it right before you are going to put it on top of the batting. 

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Then lay it out on top of the batting starting in the corner. Again your goal is smooth. 

Next you start the basting. Choose a needle that is easy to thread and that is easy to take big stitches with. For the thread, use inexpensive thread - try to get thread that won't easily knot itself. You will cut the thread to the length/width of the part you are stitching. Using our quilt size example you'll want to cut it more than 72 inches in length. I usually pull the thread and size it up along the area I'm basting instead of measuring. If you measure too short it's not a bit deal. 

If I'd thought about it I would have used yellow thread that showed up better. 

The thread doesn't need to match the quilt. You are going to remove this thread so make it easy to do. You don't have to do a knot at the beginning of the row, however don't over pull it or you'll regret not putting a knot! I baste the rows horizontal and vertical at 6 inches apart. When I stretch out my hand the area from the end of my thumb to the end of my middle finger is approximately 6 inches so that's what I use to measure. Again this doesn't need to be perfect just keep it smooth. 

You will baste horizontal and vertical. If the quilt is larger than the table area, don't worry- leave the remainder of your thread. 

Once you have covered the area of the quilt top that you have anchored down with the bulldog clips you will undo the clips and move the whole quilt down to the area you haven't basted. Secure the backing first. Smooth the batting on and then smooth the top down. Then clip the next area you haven't basted to the tabletop (or other area). The benefit to basting on the floor is that you don't have to readjust- however you get a better baste when using a hard surface that isn't a floor. 

Basted

Once you have basted the entire quilt top then you are ready for the machine quilting or hand quilting or tying part. We would like to do a separate tutorial for that- likely should be a video. #goals

For this quilt I chose to sew straight lines. I started from the center and worked my way out. I used a tool that Bernina has that is a metal bar that allows your stitching to be consistent. You can also use tape - painters tape works well and there are other marking tools too. You can also 'stitch in the ditch' which is when you machine sew in the seams. 

Ewww - look the lines aren't super straight however when the quilt is done no one will notice (or at least I hope they won't).

What about the binding? I test different fabrics. I kind of liked the fabric I used for the backing, however I didn't quite have enough of it.

I did have enough of the red so I went with that, and in the end I liked it better, 

Binding. I like my binding 2 1/2 inches wide. Some people like to cut binding on the bias - I do sometimes although most of the time I cut it in 2 1/2 inch strips selvedge to selvedge. Measure all 4 sides and add another 6 inches that's how many running inches you need for your binding. If the quilt is 72 x 80 you'll need 72 + 72 + 80 + 80 + 6 = 310 running inches. About 8 or 9 strips. After cutting the 2 1/2 inch strips, I iron the strips in half raw edge to raw edge i.e. wrong sides together- right sides out. 

Lay the binding raw edge lined up with the raw edge of the quilt top. You can pin if you'd like to.  When you get to the corner you will fold the corner down. (need photo of this). 

When you get to the end you will do a fold and over fold as illustrated here. 

After you have sewn the binding all the way around, trim the excess batting and backing (and the tail of the binding). 

Tie a knot to start. 

Take a stitch however you prefer. I like to draw the needle through the casing of the binding, however it do it the way you like. You can even machine sew the binding down. 

And then Ta Da! You are done! Now don't forget to make a wish the first night that you sleep (or nap) under a new quilt!